Richelieu, derby, moccasin: what are the differences?

Jul 12, 2026

Do you often wonder which shoe to choose to complete your outfit? Richelieu, Derby or loafer , these classic models keep coming up in searches by men mindful of their style. In this article, we explore their origins, technical features, and practical uses. Whether you are preparing for a wedding, a professional meeting, or a casual weekend, you will find the keys here to make the right choice. Discover the best Richelieu, Derby, and loafers in 2026.

To complete your style in 2026, it is essential to choose models that are both elegant and durable. Refinement lovers can explore a selection of premium men's leather shoes, ideal for daily or formal use. For professional occasions, the elegant suit shoes add the perfect finishing touch to a polished outfit.

Also discover our dedicated selection of best suit shoes as well as the must-have models of high-end suit shoes. Finally, to compare trends and find the most popular models, also check out our guide to best trendy suit shoes.

Historical origins of these iconic models

The history of men's shoes reveals much about their evolution. The Richelieu is named after the Duke of Richelieu, who is said to have popularized it at the court of Louis XIV. Other sources mention a British origin with the Oxford model, designed for the university. This shoe is distinguished by its elegant construction and formal appearance.

The Derby , meanwhile, was born in the 19th century. The Earl of Derby, bothered by shoes that were too tight, requested a more open lacing. This innovation made it more comfortable for outdoor activities. Some historians also link it to the Prussian General Blücher for similar military reasons.

The loafers date back much further, with origins among the indigenous peoples of North America. Their simple construction, without complex lacing, makes them a versatile model. Today, they fit perfectly into modern wardrobes.

These developments show how comfort and style have always influenced each other. According to recent data on the French shoe market, low-cut city models grew by 18% in 2025, a sign of a return to durable classics.

To refine your choice and discover models suited to every style, explore our selection of best loafers, ideal for comparing the must-haves of the moment. If you are looking for a premium finish, the leather loafers offer a perfect balance between elegance and durability, while those who prefer softer textures will appreciate the men's suede loafers.

To go further, discover our guide on best soft leather loafers for men as well as current trends with the best trendy loafers for men to find the ideal pair in 2026.

Technical features: how to easily distinguish them?

The main difference lies in the lacing system and construction.

The Oxford features closed lacing. The quarters (side parts with eyelets) are sewn under the vamp, forming a tight V. This gives a sleek and formal silhouette. It is particularly suitable for slim feet or moderate instep. Its one-piece main construction enhances its refined look.

The Derby offers open lacing. The quarters are sewn on the vamp, allowing a wider opening. This model adapts better to feet with a strong instep. It provides immediate comfort and greater flexibility.

The loafer often goes without laces. It uses a slip-on construction with stitching around the foot. Some models include tassels or decorations, but the absence of a tightening system makes it very easy to slip on.

Here is a comparison table to visualize these differences:

Criterion	Richelieu	Derby	Moccasin
Lacing	Closed (tight V)	Open (flaps)	Laceless (slip-on)
Instep comfort	Moderate, slim instep	High, strong instep	High, versatile
Level of formality	Very high	Medium to high	Casual chic
Main occasions	Wedding, formal office	Daily work, weekend	Summer, casual
Care	Demanding smooth leather	Adaptable to all leathers	Easy, often laceless

This table is based on common observations from men's shoe specialists.

When to wear each model? Practical advice

The choice depends on the context. For a formal event like a wedding or an important meeting, opt for a Richelieu black in smooth leather. It pairs ideally with a men's suit well tailored. At Zed By, we offer suits that highlight this understated elegance.

The Derby shines in business casual style. Wear it with chinos or wool trousers for the office. Its versatility makes it a daily ally. Try it with our men's dress shirts for a coherent look.

The loafer excels in summer or relaxed moments. Without socks, paired with jeans or cotton pants, it adds an effortless chic touch. It perfectly complements a casual blazer.

These models evolve with trends but remain reliable choices. In 2025, the French shoe market saw 281 million pairs sold, with a strong growth in classic models .

How to choose according to your body shape and lifestyle?

Take your foot shape into account. If you have a high instep, the Derby or moccasin offer more comfort. For a narrow foot, the Richelieu provides better support.

Also consider durability. Goodyear constructions, often used on these models, allow easy resoling. This extends the life of your shoes by several years.

At Zed By, we select quality leathers that match our suits. Discover our comfortable leather Richelieu shoes to complete your outfit.

Care tips:

Clean regularly with a soft cloth.
Use appropriate polish (beeswax or mink oil).
Store with shoe trees to preserve shape.
Alternate pairs to let the leather breathe.

Advantages and disadvantages of each type

Richelieu : Major advantage in formality and elegance. Possible drawback: less adaptable if your foot is wide. It remains the number one choice for special occasions.

Derby: More comfortable for everyday wear. It better accommodates foot volume variations. Its versatile style makes it a smart investment.

Moccasin : Ease of use and immediate comfort. Ideal for traveling light or hot days. Less suitable for very formal environments.

Incorporate these shoes into your complete wardrobe

A good look starts with harmony. Pair a Richelieu with a three-piece suit for a wedding. A Derby with a blazer and chinos for the office. A moccasin with raw denim jeans for the weekend.

At Zed By, we focus on pieces that complement each other. Our made-to-measure or ready-to-wear suits naturally match these shoes.

Why invest in quality shoes?

According to market analyses, consumers increasingly prioritize sustainability. A good model, well maintained, easily lasts 5 to 10 years. This represents excellent value for money..

At Zed By, we support you in choosing complete outfits. Whether you are looking for a double breasted suit or a matching shirt, our collections meet your needs.

Ready to create your perfect look? Discover our collection of men's suits and complete it with the right shoes. Ask for personalized advice or explore our bestsellers today. Your style deserves the best.

This guide helps you see more clearly. Feel free to experiment and find your personal signature. Elegance comes from thoughtful choices and pieces that reflect who you are.

Best Richelieu, Derby, and moccasins in 2026

Zed By - Best Richelieu, Derby, and moccasins in 2026

Black Leather Oxford Shoe RICHELIEU

Made in 100% genuine cowhide leather, these shoes embody timeless elegance and the robustness of high-end footwear. Their sober and refined black shade makes them a versatile model, suitable for both formal wear and dressier occasions.

Made in Italy, they benefit from recognized artisanal craftsmanship and refined finishes. They are assembled using the Goodyear stitching, a process that involves stitching the insole, shoe upper, and welt together. This construction strengthens the overall shoe durability while maintaining some flexibility and facilitating repairs, thus ensuring excellent long-term durability.

For care, it is recommended to apply a Saphir polish based on beeswax, carnauba wax, or mink oil, then gently buff with a soft cloth to preserve the leather’s shine and quality.

The item includes a pair of black leather shoes, a Zed By protective cover included as well as a Zed By shoehorn included, for easy use and maintenance.

Green Leather Double Buckle Oxford Shoe RIVOLI

This model in 100% genuine cowhide leather captivates with its timeless elegance and refined finish. Its sophisticated gray shade easily adapts to both formal and casual outfits, while adding a touch of character and distinction.

Made in Italy, these shoes benefit from recognized craftsmanship and special attention to detail. They feature a Goodyear stitched sole, a high-end manufacturing technique that involves stitching the insole, upper, and welt together. This process ensures excellent durability, better wear resistance, and optimal comfort while maintaining great flexibility.

To maintain the leather’s beauty over time, it is recommended to regularly apply a Saphir polish based on beeswax, carnauba wax, or mink oil, then gently buff the surface with a soft cloth.

The item includes a pair of leather shoes, a Zed By protective cover included as well as a Zed By shoehorn included, for easy daily care and use.

Brown Leather Moccasin Shoe LUPIN

These shoes are made from 100% genuine Brown bookbinded cowhide leather, offering a smooth, durable, and elegant texture. To preserve their shine, it is recommended to apply a Saphir polish based on beeswax, carnauba wax, or mink oil, then gently buff with a soft cloth.

In brown, they stand out for a classic and refined style. They feature a sole sewn using the Blake method, which involves stitching the sole from the inside out to perfectly bond the inner and outer soles, ensuring flexibility and durability. Made in Italy, they reflect high-quality artisanal craftsmanship.

The item includes a pair of brown leather shoes, accompanied by a complimentary Zed By shoe bag and a Zed By shoehorn, for a practical and refined experience.

Black Patent Leather Loafer LUPIN

These patent leather shoes are made from 100% bookbind calf leather, offering a smooth, shiny, and durable finish. To preserve their shine and quality, it is recommended to apply a Saphir polish based on beeswax, carnauba, or mink oil, then gently buff with a soft cloth.

In black, they stand out for their classic elegance and timeless refinement. They feature a sole sewn using the Blake method, which involves stitching the sole from the inside out to perfectly bond the inner and outer soles, ensuring flexibility and durability. Made in Italy, they reflect high-quality artisanal craftsmanship.

The item includes a pair of black patent leather shoes, accompanied by a complimentary Zed By shoe bag and a Zed By shoehorn, for a practical and refined experience.

Also discover:

FAQ

What is the main difference between a Richelieu and a Derby?

The Richelieu has a closed lacing integrated into the vamp, while the Derby features an open lacing. This affects the level of formality and comfort.

Is the loafer suitable for the office?

Yes, in a business casual context. Choose a smooth leather model without excessive decorations to stay professional.

How do I know if a shoe fits me well?

Try it at the end of the day when your foot is slightly swollen. There should be about an inch of space in front of the toes and a firm hold without compression.